Second Half of Our Memorable, Wonderful Trip to NYC

Day 5, June 8, 2014 (Sunday)

The Statue of Liberty and Lower Manhattan

Despite the fact that we stayed up quite late on Saturday night to visit the 86th floor of the Empire State Building at night for jewel-like views, we had to get up quite early on Sunday morning because I had booked us for the first (8 a.m.) ferry out to the Statue of Liberty.  We left the apartment about 7 a.m., a little later than planned.  There are generally fewer subway trains running on the weekends, but we managed well enough, although we felt rushed.  Although many people were there ahead of us, we easily got positions forward, outside on the main deck by the rail, so the views while we were approaching the iconic statue were wonderful, particularly with the clear blue sky as a background.  (I took way too many photos!)

Original torch

After we disembarked, we picked up headsets and began our tour.  The audio tour was really good, as was the museum in the base of the statue that explained the origination of the idea for the statue, the fund-raising, the public support, the planning (financial, structural and artistic) and the construction.  Inside the pedestal is the original light, which had some design flaws and was eventually replaced. After carefully viewing all the exhibits, we walked up to the top of the pedestal.  As we strolled around on the outside, Lady Liberty towered directly above us, the drapery of her robes falling gracefully around her.  Even though I had visited New York City several times in the past, I had never made the trip to the Statue, and I was thrilled to be there.  It is really not possible to appreciate the monumental size and the beauty of the Statue of Liberty without being on the island.  Flowing among the tourists from the U.S. and many nations was a sense of awe not only for the physical object but for the ideals and history represented. 

Main Processing Building on Ellis Island

After two or three hours on Liberty Island, we caught the ferry over to Ellis Island.  From 1892 to 1924, this facility was the nation's largest and most active immigration station, where over 12 million immigrants were processed.  Only the main building is open right now, but there was enough to see and learn about there to last the rest of the afternoon.  We learned about what it was like for the stowage passengers on ships who had to be ferried to Ellis Island for processing before being allowed to enter the U.S. legally.  (Passengers on the upper decks, who were more affluent, had their papers processed on board the incoming ships and disembarked directly at the piers along the East River in Manhattan.)  They were separated from their luggage and belongings; divided into groups of men, women and children; watched by medical personnel (looking for any sign of infirmity or disease) as they ascended the grand staircase to the Registry Room; marked with chalk if they looked ill; placed on long benches in this large, lofty hall to wait for their names to be called; examined by doctors and nurses; and finally, if all went well, given their entrance papers.  For most people, the process took a few hours.  Only about 2% were held for medical or other reasons.  Only a fraction of those were forced to return to their places of origin.

Registry Room at Ellis Island

Volunteers from established ethnic groups in New York came to Ellis Island to assist in many ways, including interpretation.  There were many anecdotal stories, many presented as oral history with the actual voices of the immigrants and volunteers.  For example, the authorities wanted immigrants to be literate.  A particular woman could not read, but the clever volunteer handed her a Bible and asked her to read Psalms 23.  Being from a deeply religious background, the immigrant knew it by heart so was able to pretend to be reading and passed the test. For the Jewish people temporarily detained, a rabbi came to Ellis Island and set up and certified a kosher kitchen.  The stories ranged from tragic to amusing.  Hearing so many of them gave me a real sense of what the immigrants experienced.

Lower Manhattan and sailboats in New York Harbor from the Ellis Island ferry

When we finally left Ellis Island, we agreed that we were done for the day!  Exhaustion had caught up with us.  We took in the bustling activity in New York Harbor, which included many sailboats, as we crossed over to the Battery in Lower Manhattan.  We wanted to take a bus uptown but discovered that few ran on Sunday afternoons, so we opted for the subway.  We were so tired that we went directly back to the apartment, and we couldn't rouse ourselves even to get up and go out to dinner.  Peter made us some open-faced toasted cheese sandwiches and we rested and went to bed early.

Day 6, June 9, 2014 (Monday)

Rose Center for Earth and Space

After having to get ourselves up early for our sight-seeing the previous two mornings, we were relieved to sleep in a bit and not to have to leave the apartment until after 9 a.m.  We spent the entire day at the American Museum of Natural History on the Upper West Side.  This is another overwhelming museum in terms of its size and its collections.  We saw a show at the Hayden Planetarium about the Big Bang together and spent the day wondering around separately among the exhibits.  I spent time in the areas devoted to dinosaurs, North American Indians, Pacific civilizations, birds, biodiversity, meteorites, gems, minerals, geology.  I was fascinated by the spiraling Heilbrunn Cosmic Pathway in the Rose Center for Earth and Space; it lays out the 13-billion-year history of the universe, with human history representing a hair's width on the 360-foot path.  Also intriguing was the 400-foot-long pathway along the glass exterior walls of the Rose Center called the Scales of the Universe.  The 87-foot diameter Hayden Sphere at the center of the Rose Center serves as a central reference for illustrating the relative sizes of galaxies, stars, planets, cells, and atoms, with text panels and models making different sets of comparisons.

Among the very last to exit the museum that day, we walked outside to find that the rain had ceased.  After finding a light snack, we took the subway to Times Square, emerging into the teeming crowds around Broadway and 42nd Street.   A Broadway show was our plan.  Finding no tickets at TKTS for any shows we wanted to see, we decided to go directly to the Majestic Theater to see if we could obtain tickets for The Phantom of the Opera, Matthew's first choice.  Fortunately, there were three seats together in the center section of the orchestra less than a dozen rows back from the stage.  We paid full price, but since we seldom get to New York (and Matthew had never been there), the expense seemed justified.

With a little over an hour until the show and hunger gnawing at our bellies (I never planned for meals on our itinerary.  Who has time to eat?), we searched the general area for a eating establishment.  I sighted just half block away the trendy Shake Shack.  It was crowded, with a line out the door, but the fast-food counter service was quick; the challenge was finding a table.  We squeezed into a small space by the window.  The food didn't take long; I didn't think it was outstanding, but it satisfied us.

Details above the stage in the Majestic Theater and the prop chandelier

The inside of the Majestic Theater we found to be, if not majestic, ornate and pleasing.  The show itself was phenomenal.  The acting, the singing, the staging, the props--everything was beyond expectations.  We were thrilled to experience this musical on Broadway.  It was another day of superlatives.

Day 7, June 10, 2014 (Tuesday)

Interior of the Guggenheim

The Guggenheim Museum was our first destination.  While it houses some important works of art from its permanent collection and usually has great exhibits, the best part of the Guggenheim, for me, is the structure itself.  Frank Lloyd Wright created something truly original and appealing, a daring architectural design which succeeded in purpose and beauty despite the initial criticism and doubt.  The current main exhibit, which takes up most of the main gallery space from the top to the bottom, features the works of the Italian Futurists of the 20th Century.  The the history and cultural significance of the movement, which allied itself to some degree with Fascism, was interesting, but, while I appreciated the artistic statements made by the paintings, sculptures and media on view, I found that the work itself, aesthetically, did not appeal to me. 

After spending a couple hours with the Italian Futurists, I was delighted to spend the remainder of our visit enjoying the works of Impressionists, Post-Impressionist, abstract, Surrealist and early modern artists.

Matthew and the Mad Hatter in Central Park

Although the morning had been rainy, the afternoon was brilliant.  After getting a light lunch at a nearby deli, we walked around Central Park.  Without a detailed map, we wandered a bit in the huge expanse of lawns and trees, but eventually we ended up at the large bronze Alice in Wonderland statue.  Indeed, it was a place of wonder and surprises.  Perched on a low branch of a tree was a juvenile red-tail hawk; other species, presumably its prey, were raucously objecting to its presence near nests.  In the plaza by the statue, there was a group of about 20 young people singing acapella a lively tune with various melodies and harmonies.

Peter controlling a remote control sailboat on the Conservatory Waters

When they had finished, we entered directly into the area surrounding the calm Conservatory Waters, where a few remote-control sailboats were trying to catch a breeze and skim across the surface.  We rented one for a half hour.  A bit more wind would have been nice, but we managed to maneuver No. 51, our assigned craft, fairly well.

Turtles in the Lake

After that, we continued to explore the park, walking past the Lake and the Loeb Boathouse.  Turtles were relaxing among the swirls of green algae along the shores, and rowboats were scattered about the lake.  We went to Strawberry Fields on the west side of the park.  The memorial to John Lennon was more worn than the last time I had seen it, nearly 30 years ago, but it still draws tourists, as well as amateur street performers.  No one seemed interested in the man with a sign advertising jokes for a dollar.  The singer/guitar player was also largely ignored, probably because his ability to actually carry the melodies of favorite Beatles' songs was, well, questionable.

Chalk art and messages at the Museum Mile Festival

We somehow managed to get turned around in our attempt to make it back to the east side of the park and found ourselves at the 81st Street West exit by the Museum of Natural History, so we carefully, and with some debate, made our way back across the park to emerge by the Metropolitan Museum for the 36th Annual Museum Mile Festival on Fifth Avenue.  The street was closed to traffic and filled with pedestrians enjoying live music, magic shows, entertainment for children, chalk drawing and free admission to all the museums along Fifth Avenue.  We watched a magic show, listened to some Latino musicians in front of the Guggenheim, admired the chalk artwork in process and pondered the insights spelled out on the pavement.  There was a great all-woman band with great percussion in front of the Museo del Barrio.  We went inside to see the exhibits and enjoyed some snacks at the cafe.

Empire State Building from Madison Square

We walked east on 104th Street to get to the subway.  En route, we saw a different part of New York City, the barrio, with its public housing and Hispanic restaurants and businesses--not an area usually visited by tourists.  The train took us to 28th Street.  Dusk was turning to dark and the lights of the buildings were starting to illuminate the tall buildings.  The Flatiron building stood out with its iconic shape, and Madison Square was hopping.  We found a restaurant recommended by the people from whom we rented our apartment.  Eaterly, we discovered, is not just a restaurant, but a mixture of establishments on the expansive ground floor of one of the older buildings in Midtown Manhattan.  There are bakeries, butchers, wine sellers, groceries direct from Italy, a crepe shop, beer vendors and a selection of restaurants, each with a specialty such as fish, salads, meat or pasta.  Needing to find a place where we could all find something on the menu, we chose the pasta and pizza restaurant.  We had to wait over a half hour for a table, and we explored the other colorful, aromatic and noisy areas as hunger gnawed at our patience.  However, once we were seated, service was great and the food was served promptly.  It was, of course, delicious.

Sated, we made our way back to the apartment and much needed rest.

Day 8, June 11, 2014 (Wednesday)
Our last day in the Big Apple!  We had packed a lot of experiences and activities into the previous seven days, but there was still much to enjoy!

J. Pierpont Morgan's Study

We walked a couple blocks to the Morgan Library on Madison Avenuea, a place had not previously visited.  It is wonderful!  The actual core of the museum is the library and adjacent rooms.  J. Pierpont Morgan's private study reflects the opulence of the Gilded Age.  Dark wood, deep red silk wall coverings and heavy velvet drapes provide a somber but welcoming atmosphere in this spacious retreat for the banker.  Some of his favorite and most valuable works of art from his collection hang on the walls or are placed in display cases.  A safe for the most rare books from his collection is one one wall.  His portrait has a central place above the massive fireplace.

The Rotunda of the Morgan Library

This room is entered through the rotunda, a beautiful space with marble columns and intricate ceiling decorations and murals.  It is a delight to just stand in the middle and slowly turn around and around admiring the art.

Tapestry and book lined walls of the Morgan Library

Across from the study is the actual library.  All four walls are lined with valuable tomes in beautifully crafted bookcases reaching three stories up to the majestically decorated ceiling.  A tapestry portraying King Midas (perhaps ironically) hangs over the fireplace.  Some of the most valuable parts of Morgan's collection are displayed in glass cases in this room, including a Gutenberg Bible, illuminated manuscripts, scores hand-written by Mozart, and a manuscript by Henry David Thoreau.  Adjacent to the library is the smaller librarian's office.  It was interesting to learn about the woman who was Morgan's librarian for decades as well as view papyrus texts, ancient seals and other artifacts.

The lobby of the Morgan Library and Museum

The newer part of the museum had two very interesting temporary exhibits, including "Treasures from the Bodleian Library."  Every single piece in this show was remarkable for its cultural and historical value as well as its sheer beauty.  Another room displayed rare miniatures painted by the Master of Claude de France; the works are luminous, delicate and colorful.  Yet another exhibition, "Gatsby to Garp," focused on first editions, book jackets, manuscripts and letters by the most prominent 20th century writers.  Romantic paintings from the late 18th and early 19th centuries were featured in another charming exhibit.  "Cloud Studies" was another enticing small exhibit.  The glass enclosed main, modern lobby of the Morgan Library and Museum, is currently being used for an installation of transparent rectangles, creating a light-filled array of bold colors.

We interrupted our visit to the Morgan to have lunch outside since the menu at the museum's cafe was limited (and a bit pricey).  Less than a block away, we found the Galway Pub on East 36th Street; the food was at this Irish-styled establishment was basic but delicious and reasonably (even inexpensively) priced, and there was a great atmosphere.  Everything was so good that Peter was amazed that it wasn't packed with people.

When we had seen everything at the Morgan, we caught a bus for 42nd Street by the Hudson River to get our tickets for the Harbor Lights Cruise at 7 p.m.  While we waited, we staved off severe hunger by enjoying an ice cream in the little riverside park by the piers, next to the aircraft carrier Intrepid, which is now an sea, air and space (space since it retrieved NASA modules returning to Earth--one was displayed hanging beside the hull).  A retired Concorde SST could also be viewed on the dock without entering the actual museum part of the Intrepid as well as several aircraft on the deck.

View of Manhattan from the boat with the Empire State Building on the left and the Freedom Tower on the right

It had turned chilly by the time we boarded the tour boat, but we chose seats outside on the upper deck nonetheless.  Luckily, I had returned to the apartment right after we left the Morgan to change into a long-sleeved shirt and to retrieve a scarf for me and a jacket for Matthew while he and Peter checked out a nearby gaming store.  Even so, we were cold.  However, we were not willing on this, our last night in New York City, to miss the views.  The tour guide was very informative.  The high clouds did not obscure the skyscrapers or riverfront as we cruised down the Hudson, around the Battery and up the East River just past the United Nations.  On the return, we made a circle around the Statue of Liberty.  The impression at night is different from the day; the torch and the crown shone as the daylight waned.  The statue seemed even more majestic and welcoming.

View from the High Line

After the cruise, we headed south to walk along the relatively new High Line park, a beautifully designed and landscaped place which used to be an abandoned elevated railroad line.  Off the water, we were not cold, and we strolled at a leisurely pace, enjoying the artfully designed benches.  Although earlier in the day there would have been food available, we were there too late for that.  When we left the High Line at the southern end, we were in the trendy meatpacking district.  (Even had I not read about it being trendy, we could have surmised this by the people, the ambiance and perhaps the Bentley and the Rolls we saw parked at the curb.  Besides, a sure sign is that the only Tesla dealership is in this neighborhood.) I'm sure the crowds were just starting to build as people milled around in the pedestrian areas and stood in lines for restaurants.  We'd already had a long day and were too hungry to wait in line (or on line, as they say in New York), so we walked a couple blocks along 9th Avenue and came to the Gaslight Pizzeria.  At an outside table, we enjoyed calzones and pizza as we watched the people go by.

View from the rooftop of the apartment building

Public transportation took us back 34th Street.  We emerged among elated Rangers fans streaming out of Madison Square Garden, celebrating that night's win in the Stanley Cup.  The top of the Empire State Building was lit in the Ranger's colors--blue, red and white.  We walked along 34th until a crosstown bus caught up with us and took us the few remaining blocks to Murray Hill.  At the apartment building, Matthew and went up to the lovely rooftop for a last view of the city at night.

June 5, 2014 (Thursday)
We enjoyed the complementary bagels and muffins for the last time, packed up and set out for our last excursion on public transportation.  For $2.50 each, we rode the subway to 125th Street and then the airport bus directly to departures at La Guardia, an amazingly simple and inexpensive way to get to the airport.

New York City was, particularly when I was tired and/or hungry, too noisy and crowded.  Then, I felt engulfed in a cacophony, assaulted by stimuli.  But most of the time, we all delighted in the myriad of experiences available.   The museums, the architecture, the performances, the history and culture, the people (who were without exception friendly and helpful), the lights of the city--it was all wonderful.

We came back to our beautiful home and garden in Gold River, satisfied with our tremendous vacation and ready to enjoy the slower and more peaceful life of suburbia for a while.

The first half of our vacation in New York City

My intention was to start a blog of our vacation in New York City and update it daily.  However, our days were so full of activities that we returned each night exhausted and ready for bed.  There was no time or energy for recording the daily delights of our excursions in the city.  We have now recovered from our vacation by relaxing at home, and I have some time to review the highlights of our New York adventures with words and photos.   So here it is!

Peter, Matthew and I arrived late on the night of Tuesday, June 3.  LaGuardia was packed with people.  Being unfamiliar with the airport, it took us a while to locate the car sent to pick us up—a black town car that looked exactly like dozens of others at the curb.  Both the driver and I were stressed, but the three of relaxed in comfort in the backseat while we were whisked through Queens into Midtown Manhattan to the apartment we were renting on East 34^th Street.  One of the owners, Evan, greeted us when we arrived and provided orientation to the amenities of the building. 

Day 1, June 4, 2014 (Wednesday)

Before leaving home, I had developed a busy schedule of activities for all eight days of our vacation.  Since Janelle Monae was scheduled to perform in the band shell at Prospect Park in Brooklyn, we (I should say “I”—the guys agreed to be led around by me for the entire vacation!) decided to spend our first day in NYC in Brooklyn so that we could easily attend the free outdoor concert.  After enjoying the bagels and cream cheese and muffins that are available in the game room of the apartment building for free on weekdays, we set out.

The Brooklyn Bridge

We found the people in New York to be very friendly and eager to offer assistance.  We first took advantage of this while seeking the place to purchase weekly Metro passes. (This was a great deal!)  We took the subway (only three blocks from the apartment) south to City Hall in order to walk across the Brooklyn Bridge, a highly recommended activity.  It was a lovely, sunny morning, and we took our time admiring the engineering feat of the bridge and the views in all directions, stopping to read the bronze plaques describing the history and construction of the bridge.  Arriving in Brooklyn, we strolled around tree-filled streets in Brooklyn Heights with well-maintained brownstone and brick houses.  The promenade above the waterfront affords great views of Lower Manhattan and New York Harbor.   

Peter and Matthew resting in Grand Army Plaza

Our next destination was Park Slope, another affluent neighborhood in Brooklyn adjacent to Prospect Park.  Emerging from the subway, we found our way to Grand Army Plaza, with the monumental arch commemorating the Civil War.  Feeling hungry, we found a small Japanese restaurant and purchased meals to go, which we enjoyed on a blanket in the park. 

Not having a detailed map, we took a roundabout route to the entrances to the Brooklyn Museum and the Botanical Garden.  Unfortunately, we did not have time to enjoy both of these renowned sites, so we opted for the museum since it had become warm and humid in the afternoon and I needed air-conditioning!  The museum has a fabulous permanent collection and wonderful temporary exhibitions.  I particularly appreciated Judy Chicago’s The Dinner Table, a tribute to the contributions of women throughout the ages to culture, and a work of art that filled a entire rotunda.  Entitled Swoop, it is a work that is compelling with its sweeping grand lines, its use of light, its small details and its incorporation of recycled materials. 

Tired of walking and standing for hours, and wanting to get to the venue for Janelle Monae when the gates opened at 6 p.m., we took the bus to the other end of Prospect Park.  There was no doubt about the direction we should go to the band shell; we just joined the many people obviously headed that way.  When we got in the park, there was a long line—a very long line.  It took us about 20 minutes to find the end of it.  The band shell seats about 2000 and has room within the fence surrounding it for another few thousand people.  The likelihood of getting inside was nil.  After debating our options for a while, we took another road back toward the band shell and found a space for ourselves back from the fence among the tens of thousands of people.  Of course, the concert did not start on time and our view of the stage was limited, but we enjoyed resting, munching on some snacks and watching the people around us.  When the concert finally started, we enjoyed the music even though the bass overpowered the other ranges.  After a few songs, we decided to leave.  As we walked away, we found that the quality of the sound actually improved, but we were ready to head back to the apartment. 

We arrived by subway back in Midtown tired and hungry and just a bit too late for the local restaurants.  If we even ate, I can’t remember it.

Day 2, June 5, 2014 (Thursday)

Thursday, June 5, became another museum day since it was raining.  Luckily, the Metropolitan Museum of Art does not open until 10 a.m., so the only reason we had to get up early was to get the bagels and muffins before they ran out.  I went down at 7:30 to find there were still plenty. 

The Met's American Wing Courtyard

The Met is legendary, so any attempts by me to describe the range of the exhibits, the size of the place, the experience of being there are unnecessary.  We split up once inside to pursue on our own interests.  I tried to see as much as possible while taking the time to appreciate what was before my eyes—the Greek and Roman statues and pottery and jewelry; the European paintings; the artifacts of the Pacific, particularly the collections begun by Margaret Meade; the glass work of Tiffany and his contemporaries; the statues in the grand and lovely courtyard of the American Wing; the period rooms; the walls, mosaics and statues from Egyptian temples and tombs.  It was overwhelming.  We got together for a brief lunch in the cafeteria of the ground floor, which offered a wonderful selection of food.  (I enjoyed the salad bar.)

View of the Upper West Side above the trees in Central Park

A couple hours before the museum closed, the skies cleared, and we emerged from the building to be greeted by a blue sky in which fluffy white clouds floated about the refreshed greenery of Central Park.  We strolled through the park, stopping at the Reservoir, Turtle Pond, and Belvedere Castle before exiting on the west side.  We did not have time to sit down for a meal before the concert we were scheduled to attend that evening, so we opted for bakery goods from (yes, I am ashamed to say) Starbucks. 

View of the buildings facing the south side of Central Park and Columbus Circle from inside Columbus Circle Mall

We caught a bus to Lincoln Center and picked up our tickets for that evening’s performance of works by Duke Ellington performed by the Wynton Marsalis band in the Rose Theater.  We had center front seats in the balcony from which we could enjoy watching the musicians as they performed.  The acoustics, of course, were fantastic. 

The Apple Store, looking up through the glass cube from the showroom level

After the wonderful concert, we walked along the south side of Central Park, discovering the large Apple Store on the southeast corner across from the Plaza Hotel.  Sitting in the middle of a plaza, the actual store is below ground.  Above it is an empty glass cube with the Apple logo on each side.  Access to the store is by elevator or a spiral staircase.  The store is much larger than the shopping mall outlets and, like most of New York, blaring music and glaring light. 

Grand Central Station

We meant to catch a bus south, but we ended up walking back to 34^th Street, stopping at Grand Central Station to admire the interior.  We found the last open food vendor in the lower level, and Peter and Matthew bought huge sandwiches, which they ate as we continued to the apartment.  I snacked on chips and hummus when left over from the previous evening’s picnic in the park when we finally made it back. 

Day 3, June 6, 2014 (Friday)

The Woolworth Building and Freedom Tower in Lower Manhattan

After breakfast, we set off for Lower Manhattan.  Once again, we exited the subway at City Hall.  This historic edifice, we found, was being renovated, so its architecture was not visible.  We walked on, viewing the Woolworth Building.  One of the first skyscrapers, it soars above the buildings immediately surrounding it, graceful in its Neo-Gothic style.  (It is still one of the 20 highest buildings in NYC.)  

St. Paul's Chapel

Our next stop was St. Paul’s Chapel, which I was interested in visiting because of its colonial and early American history.  (George Washington walked there to his pew to pray after his first inauguration.)  It now has another historical context of which I was not aware.  Only a few blocks from the World Trade Center, it became a place for firefighters and others to sleep, eat and be comforted between shifts as they continued to work for weeks after the September 11, 2001, attacks on the two tallest buildings.  Amazingly, neither the edifice nor the adjoining cemetery suffered any significant damage, and it became a center of volunteer efforts. Today, it still houses a vibrant congregation as well as an exhibit and memorial to its use as for volunteer activities in the fall of 2001.

9/11 Memorial with Museum behind

Next, we visited Ground Zero.  The two memorial pools, with water cascading into abysses in their centers, are surrounded by the new museum as well as ongoing construction of new edifices.  Thronged with visitors, the memorial lacked solemnity; I had a better sense of the tragedy and the heroism at St. Paul’s.

Rotunda of Federal Hall

We walked a few short blocks to Federal Hall, the site of Washington’s inauguration.  The previous structure at one time was simultaneously city hall, the capital building of New York and the capital of the new Federal government.  The existing historical structure has a large rotunda graced with Corinthian columns.  At one time, it served as a customs house and then as a repository for federal funds and gold.  A National Parks ranger provided us with an excellent tour with lots of historical details and then directed us down the street to a narrow deli where we purchased excellent sandwiches, which we enjoyed eating on a plaza dedicated to one of the Rockerfellers.

Nave of Trinity Church

After lunch, we walked west on Wall Street, past the New York Stock Exchange, once easily visible but now heavily guarded.  At the end of Wall Street is Trinity Church, another Neo-Gothic structure with bright and colorful stained glass windows.  The cemetery around the church has the tombs of many important historical figures, including Alexander Hamilton, who was obviously revered by the congregation at his time.  In addition to a large memorial within the church, there is a large marker over his grave that was placed and is still maintained by the members of the church.

Peter and Matthew by the Charging Bull

Walking toward Bowling Green Park, we passed the Charging Bull statue by artist Arturo Di Modica.  The world-famous Charging Bull achieved overnight stardom after the artist dropped it off in front of the New York Stock Exchange in 1989, in violation of city permits. The sculpture rapidly became an urban legend and is now an international icon.  We had to adopt the aggressiveness of the bull to get a photo op with the huge bronze beast as hundreds of tourists jockeyed for space in front of it.

Murals in the Alexander Hamilton Custom House

On the other side of Bowling Green Park is the Alexander Hamilton Custom House, which now houses the Smithsonian’s American Indian museum in New York City as well as government offices.  My interest was in its history and architecture.  (Gilbert Cass designed this building, as well as the Woolworth Building.)  We ascended the stately outside stairs, passing by the four limestone female statues representing Asia, Europe, Africa and America designed by Daniel Chester French, who made the statue of Abraham Lincoln at the Lincoln Memorial.  Inside the Beaux Arts design and the murals depicting New York Harbor in the rotunda are stunning.

Russian Folk Singers

A short walk got us to the waterfront, where we viewed the WWII memorial to the Coast Guard and the colonial fort called Castle Clinton.  We then hopped on the subway to get to the Upper West Side and the American Museum of Folk Art by 5:30 p.m.  There, not only did we delight in a performance of Russian folk music by four performers, attired in bright peasant costumes, with tremendous voices and a real love of their music, we enjoyed the artwork on display in this small museum.  My favorite pieces were quilts, including one designed, pieced and sewn by a tailor from leftover pieces of silk from his trade and presented to his daughter a wedding gift.

The Palm Court in the Plaza Hotel

With the skies still bright and sunny, we walked through Central Park to the east side, stopped in to see the Palm Court in the Plaza Hotel and then took the subway to 34^th Street.  That evening, we dined at a restaurant near the apartment building that Matthew had spotted.  Tucked into a long and narrow space, the Thai restaurant v{iv}—that’s its name!—has an elegant décor in soft tones of white, silver and gold with intimate lighting.  The décor does not reflect the Thai culture, but the food was definitely Thai and definitely great. 

Day 4, June 7, 2014 (Saturday)

View looking south from the 86th Floor of the Empire State Building

We were up bright and early on a lovely Saturday morning to be among the first to arrive at the Empire State Building, a short walk from the apartment.  Dragging ourselves out of bed was worth the effort as we avoided the lines and found the views from the 86^th floor unimpeded by other tourists.  We spent a bit of time listening to our headsets and learning about the construction of the building as we looked at exhibits, but the real highlight is the views.

Part of the interior decoration on the second floor of the New York Public Library

After leaving the Empire State Building, we walked to the New York Public Library, the entrance flanked by the two lions watching over 5^th Avenue.  The interior, as are the interiors of most public buildings from that era, is spectacular.  Unfortunately, the enormous main reading room was closed to the public that day, but we contended ourselves with the portraits in the Salomon Room and the beautiful ceiling murals and grand halls and staircases. 

South wall of the nave of St. Patrick's Cathedral

The next stop was St. Patrick’s Cathedral.  Although being renovated, some of the stained glass windows are still visible as well as the niches and chapels surrounding the nave and apse.  We crossed the street to Rockefeller Center, where we had lunch beside the courtyard that is transformed in the skating rink in the winter. 

Art work and reflections in the Sculpture Garden of MoMA

We then spent a few hours at the Museum of Modern Art.  At the time it was created, the museum was showing art from the previous fifty years or so.  This means that its permanent collection includes works by late 19^th century artists such as Van Gogh (including Starry Night), Monet, Cezanne and Seurat as well as 20^th and 21^st century artists.  I started with the temporary exhibit of works by Gauguin from his time in the South Pacific, a wonderfully designed showing.  I then visited the exhibition of works by Brazilian artist Lygia Clark; there were some strange pieces and her work in art and psychology as revealed by the installations was very 1970’s.  I enjoyed the permanent collection immensely and found the sculpture garden peaceful and delightful. 

The Brooklyn Bridge spanning the East River from Fulton's Ferry Landing

Music was on the schedule for the evening again.  We took the subway to the first stop in Brooklyn and walked to the waterfront and Fulton’s Ferry Landing.  The plaza by the water was a photo op site for young women and men dressed for weddings or formal affairs.  Walt Whitman’s “Crossing Brooklyn Ferry” is engraved in the railing surrounding the landing.  Peter and Matthew enjoyed cones from the Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory and we walked along the waterfront as we waited for the Bargemusic performance to begin.  The docked and scruffy barge converted into a chamber music venue has windows behind the stage providing views across the East River of Lower Manhattan.  The rustic interior is comfortable, but the sparse wooden decor was in high contrast to the supremely accomplished performances of Mark Peskanov on violin and Jerome Lowenthal on the piano.  We heard pieces by Beethoven, Mozart and Schubert, performed flawlessly (at least to our ears) by two men who were obviously enjoying their collaboration.

Boats on the East River under the Brooklyn Bridge with the Empire State Building on the horizon

When the encore was over, we stepped outside to twilight over Manhattan.  After snapping a few photos, we headed to our next destination, a return visit to the Empire State Building.  Our tickets allowed us entrance during the day and between 10 p.m. and 2 a.m.  Not wanting to stay up too late, we timed our arrival for 10 p.m.—as did several hundred other people.  Not wishing to stand in line and hungry for the dinner we had skipped, we decided to risk the mediocre food so typical of high-traffic tourist areas and dine at the Heartland Brewery located at ground level in the Empire State Building at 34^th and 5^th Avenue.  We were pleasantly surprised with delicious and reasonably priced food and great service. 

Fifth Avenue and the Avenue of the Americas glow among the buildings to the south of the Empire State Building

At 11 p.m., there was not line and we went to 86^th floor of the Empire State Building without delay.  The buildings all around glowed and shimmered in the clear night air.  It was worth the wait!

New York, New York!

We are here!  Matthew, Peter and I arrived at La Guardia late last night.  A Lincoln Town Car was waiting to whisk us through Queens into the city.  When we arrived at the apartment we are renting in the Murray Hill neighborhood through airbnb, one of the owners, Evan, was waiting to greet us.  Fresh flowers and wine were on the table.  The place is quite nice, and the beds are comfortable.  I love the large windows and the views of the city to the south.

I was up at 6 a.m., ready to start going.  After visiting the rooftop garden, which is beautifully landscaped, I went to the get complimentary bagels and muffins from the lounge downstairs and then walked up 34th Street a couple blocks to buy milk and bread.  The Art Deco roof and spire of the Chrysler Building was one of the first things I saw while walking to the shop.

The guys are now up.  We are heading to Brooklyn today, starting with a walk from City Hall across the Brooklyn Bridge.  It's a bit overcast and foggy right now, but it is supposed to clear in an hour or two.